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How to deal with the tripod shadow in direct, lopw sunlight?

 
n°10125
stephaneZ
Posted on 01-25-2008 at 12:49:04 PM  profilanswer
 

Any tips when shooting a 360 in direct, low on the horizon sunlight, to deal withe the shadow of the tripod? My attempts at photoshopping it off haven't been too convincing so far.

n°10134
badders
Posted on 01-27-2008 at 09:33:17 PM  profilanswer
 

I always try to find a location if possible where the tripod shadow is hidden in an already existing shadow area.
 
If that's not possible, then it's down to learning the skills of photoshop, including "perspective cloning" a true life saver!


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Andrew Baddeley
360 Tactical VR Ltd
www.360tacticalvr.co.uk
n°10185
elfinn
Posted on 02-03-2008 at 04:29:23 PM  profilanswer
 

Oh, please, could you elaborate on how you use the "perspective cloning", a life saver is more then welcome.  

n°10186
badders
Posted on 02-04-2008 at 08:25:41 AM  profilanswer
 

Not really possible here, but Google for Photoshop Perspective Cloning and you'll find lots of examples. Use that knowledge to transfer across to cloning an area moving away from the shadow area onto the shadow area.


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Andrew Baddeley
360 Tactical VR Ltd
www.360tacticalvr.co.uk
n°10187
Jim Scott
Posted on 02-04-2008 at 10:08:00 AM  profilanswer
 

Hi elfinn!
 
Another suggestion - look up "Vanishing Point" in your Photoshop online "Help".
 
Below is the general workflow (CS2):
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1) With the image you wish to work on already open, select the "Vanishing Point" filter.
2) The dialog appears with the "Create Plane" tool automatically selected.
3) Click the Plane tool on the points to define the desired perspective grid in the proxy image (double click to close this grid).
4) Select the "Clone" tool & option-click the clone source point (just as with the "standard" clone tool).
5) Click and drag in the area you wish to cover with the clone source.
 
This is a great technique for areas with geometric patterns (tiles, decking, carpet, etc.)
 
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If you have areas with amorphous qualities (grass, gravel road, sand, etc.) you will find the standard clone tool in Photoshop to be just as good and faster than using the "Vanishing Point" filter. Just make sure you use a hard-edged brush at 90-100% opacity, and a relatively small brush size. There will be touch-ups required because you can get a few tell-tale duplicate "signature" pebbles/grass/sand patches. Easy to remedy with a few clicks here and there.
 
=======================
Yet another route - the "Patch" Tool. This technique is quick and useful for a larger amorphous area. Now I'm not referencing tripod removal so much as getting rid of undesirable objects in your source images. I recently managed to stand in an early morning shot right next to my tripod (talk about a beginner error!) - a big shadow in the source image. Cloning (perspective or standard) would certainly have worked to remove my considerable shadow but it was much faster to use the "Patch" tool. With the "Patch" tool option set to "Patch: Source", I outlined my shadow and then dragged the outline to another similar section of the road (without my shadow). This took two quick click'n drags to get rid of the shadow - the first got rid of most of the shadow, the second completed it. Using the "Patch" tool was far faster than cloning, and worked just as well with the amorphous area I was dealing with.


Message edited by Jim Scott on 02-04-2008 at 12:24:07 PM

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Nikon D70, 10.5mm DX Nikkor; PPC G5 2x2.5, 7GB; Mac OSX (10.4.11); Stitcher 5.6.2

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