Hi
 
I've recently upgraded from Stitcher Express 1 to Stitcher 5.7.  I upgraded just so i could stitch my fish eye images.  For some reason, and no doubt its user error, but I cant seem to get it to work.
 
Can some one please advise best way to set it up to work, or point my in the right direction as to where  I can find some info?
 
My images were shot using Nikon D100 + Nikon 10.5mm fish eye & Manfrotto pano head.  I've been shooting 8 images around, plus one for top and bottom, so there should be plenty of overlap.
 
I used to have to correct fisheye images first before stitching, which took a lot of time.  I bought 5.7 in the hope it would save me the time, but so far it I cant figure out how to use it / set it up to use my 10.5mm fisheye.
 
I'd be very gratefull for any help / advise
 
Many thanks
 
Jason

Hi Jason!
 
A few ideas...
 
1) Try shooting (6) around - a 26% overlap, still plenty for Stitcher to work with.  
 
2) Verify the accuracy of your fisheye calibration (as per the Manual).
 
3) Verify your non-parallax point ("NPP" - also known as the "nodal point" ), even if you are positive it is precise. This NPP error is often the source of stitching problems. With a fisheye lens the NPP is more of a zone than a point.
 
---------------------------------------------------------------------
The technique I have found to be excellent in finding the NPP is using a chain link fence very close to your panohead rig (3 feet or less) with a building 25 feet or more in the background (nice linear lines).
 
Take one image and then rotate your camera to the next shot location - the chain link fence of course visible in both shots. What you want to look for is the accuracy in the overlap area of the two shots. The chain link fence should not move in relationship to the building in the background (viewed in Photoshop at 100% or greater magnification). If it does then your NNP is off and you need to make adjustments accordingly.
 
A good starting point for the NNP calibration in this exercise would be 3mm behind the gold ring of the 10.5 fisheye, just onto the front of the knurled focusing ring.

Hi Jason,
 
Can you explain a little more what you mean by "I can't seem to get it to work"?
 
Also, with the D100 and Nikon 10.5mm you only need 6 x around plus 1 x up/ 1 x down.

Hi Andrew
 
When i open images it say's " Lens parameters could not be deducted from the EXIF header. Default lens type is set to rectilinear. Do you want to keep these setting? "  I click yes and then images dont sticth.  If i click no, and put in fish eye full frame is still have problems stitching.
 
I used to load a lens is sticher express, but cant seem to do that in 5.7.  Which way should I be setting 5.7 up to work with 10.5mm?  I now have a D200 so will probably have to find nodal point again (if i can remember how to!)
 
Thanks for responding
 
Jason

Hi Jason!
 
"I now have a D200 so will probably have to find nodal point again (if i can remember how to!)"
 
If you look a couple of posts above you will see a description of one way to do this procedure (the chain link fence technique). Alternately you can use vertical lines, such as a telephone pole & a building separated by at least 30 feet. The principle remains the same - objects should not move in relationship to each other when comparing your foreground & background references in the overlap area of your two test images.
 
You definitely want to use the "Fisheye Full Frame"" setting ("Properties" dialog) - then confirm the calibration of your 10.5mm lens by clicking on the "Calibrate fisheye lens" button in this dialog. Make adjustments if necessary.
 
If you can post a few lateral images from one of your panos (25% of full size; jpeg will do) it would help in figuring out your problem. Currently it seems like your non-parallax point (nodal point) setting is the culprit.

Hi Jason,
when it says: " Lens parameters could not be deducted from the EXIF header. Default lens type is set to rectilinear. Do you want to keep these setting? "  
 
Click NO !
and as Jim says: choose the "Fisheye Full Frame" choice in the Properties window.
The result will be much better and you won't need to defish the pictures before stitching.
 
regards
Autodesk support

If Stitcher isn't picking up the lens settings from the EXIf it could be because you are running the images from your camera though some kind of image adjustment program before sending them to Stitcher. Are you?

Hi
 
Thanks for your replys.
 
No I'm not running images through any software first.  I think i will check nodal point and try some new images following the advice here and see how I get on.
 
Thanks again for your help
 
regards
 
Jason

Well after pulling out all my hair, I'm close but not yet perfect.  I'm going to try and attach some low res jpgs.  I've just cleared on my sun room as i thought it might be a good subject to shoot due to all the straight lines.  I would appreciate it if anyone could have a look and see if you think I still have a nodal point problem?
 
I'm also going to try and attach my stitched version with red marks where things dont line up
 
I've tried to test my nodal point with two objects, one near and one far.  Unfortunately with the fish eye lens its really hard to see if there is parralax or not, but as best as I can tell there isn't.  
 
I would really appreciate your comments/feedback.
 
many thanks
 
Jason
 
 
 

Sorry - couldn't attach photos as easy as I thought.  They can be found here www.mudpix.co.nz
 
I feel I'm close to sorting this so any help would be so much appreciated
 
Thanks
 
Jason